Afternoon tea with friends
I’ve been living in India for just over 6 months now, and I can’t believe how fast the time has passed. Everyday brings new and exciting experiences, and I’m looking forward to lots more.
A recent survey by Freshminds asked a number of expats what they miss most about the UK with top answers including the countryside, the sense of humour and our pubs. For me it’s a bacon sarnie, afternoon tea, and friends and family.
Last April I combined two of these and went for afternoon tea with some good friends at Crusting Pipe in London’s Covent Garden (a nicer place than the name might suggest). Below are a few photos from the afternoon.
We ate sandwiches...
...and scones with cakes.
We drank tea...
...and some cheeky glasses of champagne.
We took photos (not enough!)
And chatted for hours. Fun times.
My 2011 in photos
A quick post with some of my favourite moments from 2011. Including…
A tour of Bangkok’s temples… a trip to Koh Ph Phi… a cycle ride around east London’s graffiti… a relaxing week on the Isle of Wight… the big move to live in India… my first Pooja…my first Sangeet… a work trip to Goa… a Ganesh Chaturthi tour… a Diwali visit to Sri Lanka… and Christmas in Mumbai.
Five days in Sri Lanka
Living in India means I was lucky enough to be given Wednesday, Thursday and Friday off over Diwali. Add the weekend and that’s five whole days off work.
The perfect opportunity to visit a good friend in Galle, Sri Lanka had come and I wasn’t going to turn it down.
Five days in Galle showed me five really worthwhile things to do whilst there:
1) Take a trip to Unawatuna beach
The stunning sea at Unawatuna beach
Looking for a typical, desert-island feel beach? Unawatuna is it. This semi-circular bay has all the usual trappings of a beach bay, turquoise waters fringed by golden sands and towering coconut trees. People come here to sunbathe, snorkel, sail and play ball in the sea. I’ve seen beaches the world over, and this was definitely one of the prettiest, thanks to the seriously impressive colour sea. Jump in one of the many tuk tuks from Galle and ask for Unawatuna beach road.
2) Cycle the paddy fields
Buffalo graze in the paddy fields
Just inland are some of Sri Lanka’s most typical landscapes, the paddy fields. Visually a million miles from the beach; sea blues are replaced by deep greens and the wildlife is less fish, more buffalo. The best way to explore is by bike as you can cover more ground and even cycle the small tracks between paddies, spotting monkeys along the way. I took an Idle Bike tour - they provide bikes, water and a guide to accompany you at your own pace, along the way. They even stopped half-way to offer us a freshly cut coconut water.
3) Eat at Sahana
You’ll probably come across this cafe chain whilst wandering around Galle. There’s one on Main Street, just behind the giant Buddha (yes, it’s called Main Street and is rather sensibly, the main shopping street here). It’s more of a local place to eat, but we all know they’re usually the best. I had a milky tea (be prepared for a lot of sugar), a sausage roll and an egg roti. Delicious.
4) Catch a bus to Mirissa
On the bus to Mirissa
Close to the most southerly point of Sri Lanka and roughly an hour bus ride from Galle is Mirissa. Famed for its beach, this is a popular hangout for surfers and backpackers. A stunning beach with a chilled out vibe, you’ll find plenty of places to stay, eat and drink whilst here. Take a walk along the beach for plenty of accommodation choice, at all price ranges. Choose Villa Sea View for some stunning views over the bay.
5) Tour the Fort
This is my confession time – I didn’t tour Galle’s famous Fort as I should have done. I visited, of course, and inside the Fort walls you’ll find quaint stores selling typical Sri Lankan bags, jewellery and souvenirs. You’ll also find cute cafes and places to stay (many with wi-fi). However, no trip to Galle would be complete a full tour of the Fort, and learning about its history. So I suppose my trip was incomplete. Just another reason to return…
Ganesh Chaturthi in Mumbai
Welcome to Ganesh Chaturthi
Having moved to Mumbai in India five weeks ago, it’s about time that I updated this blog, and what better time than on the day of Ganesh Chaturthi.
I’m sure the Hindu God, Lord Ganesh, needs no introduction, but the concept of the festival may.
For the past few months, Hindu families and skilled craftsmen all over India have been busy making clay models (ranging from one inch to more than twenty foot) of Lord Ganesh, in preparation for the festival. Every model is decorated in a different way, many model makers like to have fun with their designs. Today, day one, sees drum accompanied parades as the models make their way to mandapas (temporary pavillions) to await members of the public.
For the next twelve days people will visit the Ganesh models to say a prayer and offer donations. On the twelfth day, the clay models are taken to a nearby sea or river for immersion in the water.
Mumbai and the state of Maharashtra are particularly well known for Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations so I’ve taken the opportunity to go and see some myself, below are a selection of images taken in Mumbai today. Come the twelfth day, the larger Lord Ganesh models in Mumbai will be taken to Chowpatty Beach for immersion.
Lord Ganesh holidays in the Himalayas
Ganesh goes gold
Not quite sure what is happening here...
Just in case you thought these models were small - spot the man painting for some perspective.
Hidden Phi Phi – an insider’s guide
Ko Phi Phi Don, I know the stereotype. Drunk western tourists consuming buckets of alcohol and dancing on the beach wearing very little except glow sticks.
I’ve just returned from a visit to this small island, located off the west coast of Thailand in the Anadaman Sea. So are the preconceptions true? Yes and no.
Thailand is well known as a hugely popular tourist destination, so of course, I expected a lot of tourists. I took a boat from Phuket to Ko Phi Phi, and as the island came into view the impression it gave couldn’t have been more different. A lush jungle covered the island’s edge punctuated only by small coves and deserted white-sand beaches. A seemingly true example of the desert island.
Ko Phi Phi Don
With only a few fishing boats and the expansive sea in sight, I breathed a sigh of relaxation. Hectic Bangkok had been left behind, and here I was within distance of Thailand’s famous island.
My boat turned a sharp left, and the illusion was shattered. Countless charter boats churned in the water, and hordes of people played on the beaches in the distance. On sailing closer to the seafront the busy image amplified, and stepping off the boat onto the island I was hit with the frantic Thai salesmen (and women) that I had come to love in Bangkok. But that was Bangkok – a busy atmosphere suits a capital city, but surely it didn’t belong here?
Ton Sai village, where we readjusted to dry land is the most popular area on Phi Phi, and where we stayed. Should you make a trip to Ko Phi Phi and choose to stay here, be warned, it really is the party island you’d expect and more.
However, this is where I’m going to defend the island. Much of the travel advice I’ve read has written Ko Phi Phi off as a touristy island that is best avoided. I disagree.
With just a small bit of insider knowledge the island transforms into one of exploration, local interaction and pure beauty. I was lucky enough to know a dive instructor who lives on the island and who helped me to see a different side to it, and I’m happy to divulge (some of) what he shared here.
Ko Phi Phi is a dense jungle interspersed with small villages and surrounded by typically Thai beaches. Ton Sai village is busy, but the deserted beach we’re all looking for is here, you just have to look for it.
The simplest way is to hire a kayak. Plenty of vendors will rent you a kayak by the hour so get paddling and find those beaches. In as little as 20 minutes I’d paddled out to a small cove that was visable from Ton Sai, but that both surprisingly and luckily, no-one else had bothered to reach.
Another fantastic day tour is by long-tail boat; you’ll doubtlessly be approached by long-tail drivers all over Ton Sai asking if you want to take a tour but my advice is to politely decline as these are the most likely to rip you off (no thank you in Thai is mai ow ka for females/mai ow kap for males).
Book instead through a local you’ve come to know; ask your local restaurant or your scuba school nicely. Chances are you’ll get a better rate. We booked for 1800 baht (£36) between us, more than a local would pay but a sum we were happy with for a full day trip. See if you can share your boat with other tourists to reduce costs further – you could comfortably fit about 6.
So, where to? Here are some of the places I recommend you visit:
Hin Phae – better known as shark point as (you guessed it) this is where you can come to snorkel with sharks. Get here between 9 and 11am when the blacktip reef sharks are feeding and you have a good chance of seeing some. I saw about 10 within an hour!
Loh Moo Dee Beach
Loh Moo Dee beach
A nearly deserted beach. The only people you’ll find here are those camping overnight (capped at about 5 tents) and those visiting by long-tail boat, like yourself.
Koh Mai Phai (Bamboo Island) – There’s a 200 (£4) baht fee to enter onto this nature reserve, but a fee worth paying. You’ll find a few others enjoying the island including some bigger tour boats, but when an island’s this stunning it’s forgivable. Snorkelling here is highly recommended, between us we spotted an octopus, moray eels and plenty of fish.
Lana Bay – Perhaps not as pretty as the others, or maybe I’d become spoilt. This longer stretch of beach is located next to a Thai fishing village so sadly sees a fair bit of rubbish dumped on or nearby it. None-the-less, it’s a beach with few other people, and one covered in stunning shells.
Ao Nui Bay – A typical Thai beach complete with rock jutting out of the water. If you like snorkelling then this is a great bay to visit for its numerous species of fish. I spotted some barracuda whilst here.
Yonkasem (Monkey Beach) – There are two places called monkey beach on Phi Phi, both of which have resident wild monkeys. I visited Yonkasem and saw a few of the cheeky mammals. Remember that these are wild animals and can get aggressive.
My favourite place on Koh Phi Phi
My favourite place on Ko Phi Phi
I’m afraid that I’m simply not willing to divulge this information to the world wide web. This bay was the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen; cliff face hiding a deserted beach surrounded by green and turquoise waters. If you’re looking for paradise, then this is it and I want it to stay that way. If you’re really keen to visit then drop me an email or tweet me @katie_silcox and I’ll let you know where it is, if I’m feeling nice…
Where to avoid:
Of course, there are some places worth avoiding due to over-crowding. I’d advise against going to visit Maya Bay, more famously known as ‘The Beach’ from Alex Garland’s novel and subsequent film. Although in the book ‘the beach’ is located in Ko Samui, it was filmed here and has sadly led this deserted piece of paradise to become a busy hub for tourists. Located on Ko Phi Phi Leh, many dive schools take groups nearby. Indeed, I got a glimpse of it whilst diving and was able to see the overcrowding for myself. Underneath the surface, with its sharks, turtles and fish, is far more worthwhile!
- Thanks to Scuba Sam for sharing his local knowledge with me, and unwittingly with you the reader.
London from above: 10 viewpoints
London is a beautiful place, historic buildings fuse with modern architecture to create a mix-and-match patchwork of a city. Seeing it by foot is a fantastic way to explore, but to really get a sense of the city you need to get up high.
But where? Below are my recommendations, in no particular order, based on the high-up attractions that I’ve visited:
1. London Eye
Houses of Parliament from the London Eye
Opened to the public in 2000 as the Millennium Wheel, the London Eye has gone on to become one of the city’s most popular attractions. Tickets cost £18.60 on the day, and queues can get long. Stick the queues out and you’ll be rewarded with approximately 30 minutes of stunning views including the Thames, the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, St. James’ Park and more. Look carefully for the bright lights of Piccadilly and if you can see the flying flag at Buckingham Palace then it means the Queen is home.
2. Monument
Perhaps London’s best value view. For just £3 you’re invited to climb the 311 steps to the golden burning fireball at the top of London’s Monument to the Great Fire of 1666. It’s not an easy climb and I arrived at the top with aching legs but a fantastic view over the city.
3. The Gherkin
London from above, taken from the Gherkin
30 St. Mary’s Axe – more commonly known as the Gherkin is (unless you have £1000 for a year’s membership), an invite-only venue, but a challenge worth pursuing. Most of its 40 floors building are filled with offices, while the 39th and 40th floor are home to a restaurant and a champagne bar. So how do you get an invite? Many events are held here – in 2010 runners scaled the 1,037 steps to the top for charity. Keep an eye on local events, or be-friend someone who calls the Gherkin their office.
4. Greenwich
Ahh, lovely Greenwich. This is probably one of my favourite areas in London thanks to its small village-like feeling and weekend markets. Once you’ve explored the shops I recommend you head up to Greenwich Park. The walk is a little strenuous, but take it easy and enjoy the views – the best of which you’ll be rewarded with at the top. The Royal Observatory sits atop the park too, so you can choose whether to enjoy one of London’s best parks, to visit the Greenwich meantime line, or both.
5. St. Paul’s Cathedral
Taken at the Stone Gallery - shouldn't I be looking the other way?
St. Paul’s Cathedral floor is impressive but it’s the climb that will really take your breath away – probably literally as well as figuratively. It’s 528 steps to the top, where you’ll stand at the Golden Gallery, 85 metres from ground level. On the way up you’ll take in the Whispering Gallery where you can whisper into one side of the dome and your voice will be transported to the other side. You’ll also be able to take in a view over London from the Stone Gallery at 53 metres. How many of the three levels you climb is up to you, but I recommend seeing them all if you can.
6. The Oxo Tower
For drinks or dinner with a view, it would be hard to beat the Oxo Tower. I visited in summer and would recommend you do the same as you’re able to sit out on an open-air terrace overlooking the Thames. Time it right and you’ll see London’s summer sun turn to sunset, and then to night-time. It can get a little chilly once the sun has set, but they’ve thought of it all and the waiters distribute blankets for anyone who’s shivering. A 3-course meal and a bottle of wine here cost around £100 for two, so while it might not be for everyday, it’s certainly worth it as a special treat. Alternatively, you can visit just for a few cocktails.
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I’ve visited all of the above so can offer a first-hand recommendation, but there are a few that I still have to tick off my list. So while I haven’t been to any of the below, they might make a good choice too. I certainly plan to visit them all in the near future:
7. The BT Tower is usually closed to the public but in 2010 opened up for London’s Open House week. Keep an eye on the Open House website to see if you can visit this September 17th or 18th.
8. If you can’t find a way into the Gherkin, then Tower 42 is a good option. It sits next door to the Gherkin and with the champagne bar, Vertigo 42, situated on (you guessed it) the 42nd floor – I have no doubt that you’ll be in for a treat.
9. It’s a little known fact that UK residents can arrange a tour of London’s Clock Tower, better known as Big Ben. You’ll need to arrange the tour through your local MP or a member of the House of Lords. While I’ve attempted this but not got very far, I do know people who have – so it is possible!
10. I’ve walked over Tower Bridge many times, but never taken the Tower Bridge Experience. This is on my must-do list as it allows access to the higher-level walkways of the bridge and is highly recommended by the few people I know who have taken the tour.
Chinese New Year in London
Today I visited London’s Chinatown to see how it celebrates Chinese New Year.
To sum it up? Busy. But also colourful, energetic and lots of fun.
Whilst there I made sure to film the event to share, enjoy.
London through a lens
Last week I bought a DSLR camera and have been itching to get outside and take some photos. I took advantage of today’s dry, if not sunny, weather and took my camera on a trip into central London.
I have a lot to learn about the camera’s settings, but these are a few of my first shots. I had a great time taking them and I hope you enjoy them too.
China Town, London. Can anyone translate?
New Year's decorations, China Town, London
Carnaby Street, London
Erm, modern art? Ganton Street, Soho.
- Scaffolding. Playing with shutter speeds.
Taking the tube home.
Travel in 2010: month by month
2010 has been an eventful year for travel, both personally and the world over.
As the year comes to an end, I’ve taken the chance to document the year as I saw it, month by month.
January 2010
I began my year as I intended to go on, seeing it in with a party. Along with millions of others I staked my place in central London (on Westminster Bridge) and waited for both of Big Ben’s hands to reach 12. Goodbye 2009, hello 2010.
February 2010
This month saw my first 2010 trip abroad. Sky Travel asked me to fly over to Florida and film at Walt Disney World, Orlando. I joined a number of other UK travel journalists who toured the amusement park and had breakfast with Mickey Mouse.
March 2010
This is a memorable month as I visited a country that has been on my wish list for years, Kenya. I visited to film for Sky Travel and my trip saw me land in Nairobi and fly out of Mombasa – a city I recommend for shopping. In between the two I rode a horse up Mount Kenya, crossed the equator, spotted hyena on safari at Kigio Wildlife Camp and took part in watersports (snorkelling, windsurfing, kayaking and kite-surfing) at Leopard Beach. Phew!
Windsurfing at Leopard Beach, Kenya
Find out more in my Kenya video.
April 2010
Perhaps quite luckily, I didn’t have any travel plans this month. Lucky because this was the month that Eyjafjallajökull erupted – yes that volcano that no-one can spell, let alone pronounce. The eruption’s ash cloud covered UK airspace, making it unsafe for air travel. Stranded travellers across the UK and Europe tried to get home by any means possible, some even on cargo ships!
May 2010
May saw my first trip to Northern Ireland, to Derry. I visited for the annual Jazz Festival and found a trendy and exciting city. Of course, the city is not without its troubles but it certainly seems to be looking forward to a hopeful future. In fact, later in 2010, Derry was voted UK City of Culture, beating Birmingham, Sheffield and Norwich.
May was also the month I participated in an abseil at Canary Wharf to raise money for London’s Air Ambulance.
June 2010
Another big month for me as I embarked on a 33 hour journey to the other side of the world – Tasmania, Australia. I flew all that way in order to write a piece for Real Travel Magazine and within my 33 hour journey time I managed to make a quick stop in Sydney to see the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge (and when I say quick, I mean quick – 5 minutes!). Once in Tasmania I hiked around Cradle Mountain, fed native kangaroos and saw the rare Tasmanian Devil. Read my blog posted from Tasmania and my more detailed travel article to find out more.
July 2010
It began in June but the final was in July. It took over TV sets around the world. It put South Africa on the tourism map.
The World Cup.
Unfortunately neither England or an African nation won, but it certainly cemented the country high on my travel wish list.
August 2010
August was a great month for UK travel, both for me and for many others. I made trips down to Dorset to visit Durdle Door, to the Isle of Wight for the end of Cowes Week, and to the fabulous Notting Hill Carnival.
September 2010
Summer often reveals some fantastic sunsets. So nice are the Isle of Wight’s sunsets that they are often voted the best in the world! As a regular visitor to the Isle of Wight, I was asked to write about them for an Observer/Mercedes Benz published magazine. I posted my article, along with some other favourite sunset photos into a September blog.
October 2010
Another busy month, I made my first trip to Morocco where I travelled from Marrakech to the Atlas Mountains and to the beach at Essouira. What a colourful country, in every sense of the word. The friendly people, the decorative ceramics, the hot thermometer. I posted a few words and photos from my iPhone to my blog while I was out there and offered some tips on shopping in the souks once I was home. I would throughly recommend Morocco as a short to mid-haul break, just a 3 and a half hour flight from London.
In Marrakech, Morocco
I also began a new job this month…
November 2010
November was a head down, work hard kind of month. I was lucky to be offered a position at Lonely Planet as Regional Digital Editor and keen to make the most of the wonderful opportunity.
December 2010
Well, here we are! Another year gone. Unfortunately December 2010 has seen more air travel chaos as ice and snow have closed many airports including London Heathrow and New York’s JFK. Slowly but surely the airports seem to be getting back on their feet, as we all prepare for another New Year.
I write this post after a Christmas on the Isle of Wight and will see in the new year in Banbury, Oxforshire.
Here’s to making 2011 an even better one!
